The current trend within the modeling industry is both exploitative and discriminating. We are creating an environment where the only people who can pursue a modeling career are those who come from a wealthier financial bracket than others.
To understand this fully, we have to start with the basic fact that there are those who desperately want to be a model. They are willing to do anything to achieve it. Maybe because of the stardom, or the fashion, or the financial rewards that some achieve. Some pursue it because they are well qualified for it - they have the right look, physique, attitude that fits within what successful professional models typically look like. But it's also clearly true that some seek to be models as their own source of personal internal validation that they are pretty enough, good enough, and important enough. The modeling industry - especially fashion modeling - have certain standards that they want models to align with regarding height, measurements, look, and so on. I'm not here today to argue the validity of those standards, only that they exist and they are the establish guidelines that potential new models have to fit within. These validation seeking individuals are desperate to show everyone - "See! I am pretty enough! I am good enough! Somebody wants me to walk a runway for them, or shoot with them!" In reality though, they do not have the things necessary to become a full-time, working, highly sought after, professional model like some of the stars of the modeling industry. In addition, there are also parents who have communicated to their kids throughout their lifetime that they can do anything - they can achieve whatever they want to do. It's a great message to inspire them to dream and have lofty ambitious goals. But it's probably not accurate or true. See, if you are a 5'4" male and you want to play in the NBA - you might want to have a back-up plan. It's not bad to be a 5'4" male, but you have to admit that it might eliminate certain opportunities and career options for you. But some parents don't want to communicate that piece to their kids. Have you seen those auditions for American Idol where someone obviously cannot sing - like, not even a little, and Ryan Seacrest interviews them and they say, "My momma told me that I have a voice like an angel so I thought I'd come on here and share it with the world." The judges all reject them and they are stunned that the reality of the moment didn't align with what their momma told them. Fashion Show Producers and Designers both know that these groups of people exist. They've decided to tap into it and take advantage of people who are desperately looking to prove they can be a model, and parents who are willing to fund their traveling around the world, coming to model camps, and paying for their kids to walk in runway shows. Free models! Some are pretty good, but not good enough or check enough boxes to get signed by major agencies around the world. But the key word here is FREE. There are also designers and producers now who take all of this even further and CHARGE models to walk in their shows! NO!!! Quit falling for their scams and schemes! They aren't interested in you for your talent or beauty....they want you because you can afford to give them a check and buy your way onto the runaway. That's the reality, so quit trying to convince yourself that it was for any other reason except your credit card went through. Meanwhile, you have up and coming local and regional models who are on the track to getting signed globally by major agencies, but they either aren't willing to, or cannot afford to, do everything for free - so their local options dry up and go to the free options. Our agency is in Texas. We look for opportunities in Dallas, Houston, Austin, and San Antonio. 90% of the shows that come into those markets are non-paying shows - free models only. We are told that it'll give them exposure and they'll get lots of pictures and videos. But the models at our agency are on track to be signed globally - huge potential - highly trained - experienced - modeling industry standard sized models - and we struggle to get them opportunities at home because there is such an abundance of free options available. It's not like we are asking huge fees for our models to walk - make us an offer - something is better than nothing. Let's flip it for a second. Do you think fashion designers would consistently, over a period of years, go buy fabrics, create beautiful pieces, hone their craft and perfect it, and then be required to give away everything they've made for free? How long do you think they could maintain doing that? Eventually they wouldn't be able to afford it and they'd have to quit. It's the same with models. Here's what I mean:
How long do you expect they can do that if they are on their own, no financial support from parents, and doing all of the things they can to try to perfect their craft before the major global agencies sign them? The definition of EXPLOITATION is: the action of treating someone unfairly in order to benefit from their work. Fashion designers who never pay and only work with free models - does that describe you? These major show production companies that are all the rage these days - they charge designers to provide and produce a big show for them, then they don't pay anyone and keep the money for themselves. If it's a FOR PROFIT show, then there should be room for others to profit too and not just the production company. Quit taking advantage and exploiting those who are desperate enough to do anything, and those whose parents will always write a check, and do the right thing for the industry. Create a budget of expenses and then set your fees based on those expenses so that you can have some profit and continue to do you what you do. That's basic business. Designers, part of running your own business is marketing expenses - it's nothing new. If this continues, imagine the talent that will be missed. Models who had to walk away from a potential career because they couldn't afford to travel, take off from work, and not have something coming in for the work they do. Also, Producers and Designers - It seems to me that you would want the best available to represent you and your brand - not the best of the free options. You work hard, sacrifice, and pour your heart into what you do. The reward should be to have a well qualified, experienced, professional model represent you and your brand. Why do you cheapen your brand? So how do things change? If I had to hold my breath that production companies and designers would voluntarily do the right thing and hire the most qualified models to work with them, then I'll die very soon. So, it's left up to the models. Refuse to work for free. An occasional charity event is fine, but now the production companies are aligning themselves with some charity so they can more easily justify not paying models. But know your worth. Know the work that you've put in. Free should be rare and for something really special, not every show in your city.
0 Comments
|
Doug DouglasModel scout, agent, coach, and agency owner ArchivesCategories |